- VMAS Red Carpet
- Can Mass Retailers Survive Post-COVID?
- New York Fashion Week Update
- Paris Schedule
- Margiela: The Movie
- Haute Couture in Turbulent Times
- Milan September Update
- Rewiring the Fashion Industry
- The No New Clothes Challenge
- The Rise of Preorders
VMAS Red Carpet
It feels like decades since we’ve seen celebrities walk down a red carpet in the latest fashion designs. With no award shows, there were no red carpet events or post-show parties to see the latest high-end styles shown on celebrities. However, the VMAS are typically the last of the award shows and were able to provide a somewhat “live” award show this past Sunday.
Though there was no real red carpet event, the celebrity fashion was still prevalent with iconic looks for host Keke Palmer, and winner Lady Gaga. Both women had multiple outfit changes throughout their various appearances in the show. There was, however, an “arrivals” segment in which all presenters and performers posed in front of the VMAs step-and-repeat display. Miley Cyrus, Ariana Grande, and Madison Beer were all seen wearing looks from designer Mugler’s AW20 collection. Other designers included Area on Lady Gaga, Versace on Maluma, Doja Cat, and Joey King, and Giambattista Valli on Sofia Carson.
Many celebrities continued the tradition of casual red carpet looks, as opposed to the couture pieces typically seen at the Oscars or Grammys. Black Eyed Peas, Travis Barker, and CNCO wore classic streetwear looks of jeans and hoodies.
Host Keke Palmer was seen in five different looks throughout the night, including a black velvet gown from Valentino and a blue minidress from Area. She also wore a stunning Ralph and Russo Spring 2020 mid-length gown with feathers and sequin embellishments.
The biggest winner of the night, Lady Gaga, did not disappoint with her five different looks. She “arrived” in a silver metallic Area jacket and space helmet, reminiscent of the MoonMan award she knew she would be taking home. Other looks included a green ball gown from Christoper John Rogers, Valentino Haute Couture sequin catsuit and coat, and an Iris Van Herpen minidress. What was the most unique aspect of her looks was the over-the-top masks she paired with each of these gowns. She really tried to display the importance of mask-wearing with a matching silver sequin mask, a mask with horns and spikes, and even a mask resembling a scuba diver.
This award show was like no other, with minimal appearances, pre-recorded performances, and mask fashion. Hopefully, the next award season will somewhat resemble a normal red carpet event.
By: Staci Soslowitz
Can Mass Retailers Survive Post-COVID?
It started with Barney’s, may they rest in peace. Large retailers across the nation have been suffering even before the pandemic began. Macy’s has been closing stores and cutting workers nationwide. If this were the climate pre-pandemic, how would any department stores survive from COVID-related closures?
Neiman Marcus Group was the first victim of the pandemic’s economic turmoil. They entered into bankruptcy early last month, with nearly $5 billion in debt and 14,000 furloughed employees. However, they released a statement that there would be no mass closings permanently. The good news is, bankruptcies aren’t the end for department stores; they are simply a call for help. Seeing the mass filings of Chapter 11s may seem like the large retailers are doomed, but with reorganization, sale, or liquidation, stores can survive.
Some retailers have taken steps to provide alternative sources of revenue amidst the pandemic crisis. British luxury retailer Harrods recently announced the introduction of the first Harrods Outlet, a summer-only pop-up sale located within the recently closed Debenhams. While the store itself has been closed for months in response to the pandemic, with reopenings starting globally, the retailer plans to provide a safe shopping experience that meets all health-related requirements, like wider walkways.
The unusual approach should be a source of inspiration for American retailers as Harrods aims to make back some of its lost revenues through this pop-up. Dozens of unsold designer items will be available for discounted prices at the outlet. Though the uncertainty remains of whether or not the items will sell, Harrods will be able to directly sell their unsold goods, rather than selling to a second-hand discount site like The Real Real or Gilt.
The outlet’s opening in July could serve as a source of hope for bankrupt retailers in the U.S., depending on their financial success. As the reopening of economies spreads nationwide, it will be interesting to witness how department stores move, adapt, or die.
By: Staci Soslowitz
New York Fashion Week Update
It’s hard to believe that it is almost time for the biggest fashion month of the calendar year. September is such an important month for the entire fashion industry, not only because of the runway shows, but it also sets up the brands financially for the rest of the year. Up until this week, New York Fashion Week was shaping up to follow the paths of the other fashion capitals in participating in both digital and physical shows. However, the biggest shock for their schedule release was that so many of New York’s largest brands were not listed.
It was announced by IMG that the shows would take place both in Spring Studios and on the new online platform on NYFW.com. Governor Cuomo announced this week that all in-person shows must remain in strict compliance with health regulations, including 50 people for outdoor, and 50 percent capacity for indoors. In a statement, Cuomo said, “New York City is the fashion capital of the world and New York Fashion Week celebrates the ingenuity of this city, and our unmatched creative talent.”
In response to this announcement, Executive Vice President of IMG’s Fashion Events Group Leslie Russo said, “The past six months have been exceedingly difficult for the fashion industry, and we are proud to offer an avenue for designers, models, stylists, hair and makeup artists, photographers, production teams – and the innumerable other professionals who work in, or adjacent to, the fashion industry during New York Fashion Week – to safely get back to work this September.”
Although it seems like NYFW is going according to plan, there are less than half the designers showing next month compared for February. The calendar that week racked up about 177 designers. Next month, there are only 60, and only a handful will be live.
The week kicks off with a live showing of Jason Wu on September 14 and ends with a fully packed day of digital showings, from Cinq À Sept, Nicole Miller, Theory, Tom Ford, and more. Notably absent from this calendar are Prabal Gurung, Proenza Schouler, Brandon Maxwell, Telfar, Studio One Eighty Night, and many more. It seems as though the condensed schedule and strict health protocols, made designers rethink their plans.
Gurung told Vogue, “Everyone in the industry was running around playing catch up, with no actual goal in sight…. Whatever we put out there has to have a reason for its existence; pretty clothes are no longer enough. We need to really think about purpose and a mission.”
The fashion industry seemed to have higher hopes for what New York would be like, even going as far as mimicking the name “The Shows” since there will be almost none at all. The famous black flags are now hanging across Lower Manhattan, as we all brace for an interesting, unique, New York Fashion Week.
Paris Schedule
The last, and certainly not the least, of the fashion capitals has finally released its provisional schedule for Spring Summer 2021 fashion shows. The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode posted the Paris Fashion Week schedule on the website this week. Back in June, the Federation stated they would be following all health orders and doing combined digital and physical shows, much like their city counterparts. What is interesting about this schedule, though, is that there are many international designers choosing to participate in the last of the fashion weeks in the French Capital.
Nearly 80 designers were included on the official calendar for September 2020, with some new additions. These add-ons include Gabriela Hearst, AMI, Mossi, and more. Unlike New York, Paris is sticking with a full week of shows, even amidst rising cases of the coronavirus. The official calendar shows presentations over the course of nine full days, the longest amongst the fashion capitals. Even with the spare time, the schedule is packed with some of the industry’s biggest names.
Houses like Dior, Balmain, Lanvin, and Acne Studios take place within the first three days. The last day includes none other than Chanel, Miu Miu, Margiela, and Louis Vuitton. Chanel, which has always held their over-the-top fashion shows at the Grand Palais, has kept their plans unknown. The schedule is unclear as to which designers are showing physical and digital presentations or solely digital. Some names include an askeris which specifies they are registered in the parade calendar and those registered in the presentation calendar * and will include physical and/or digital events.”
Some of the largest names in the fashion industry, like Balenciaga, Givenchy, and Rick Owens, are still included on the official calendar, which the same cannot be said for New York and Milan. Since the events take place at the end of September and early October, they will definitely finish out the season with showstopping presentations.
By: Staci Soslowitz
Margiela: The Movie
The September Issue, Valentino: The Last Emperor, and Dior and I, were just some of the few notable fashion documentaries created. These films portrayed the designers’ life stories, as well as the execution of their latest and greatest. This week, Martin Margiela is now added to the list of recognizable fashion brands creating a cinematic experience of their company. The new documentary titled Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, was just made available via virtual cinema.
The film premiered at various festivals last Fall, but is just now accessible to the public through “virtual cinemas” which cost $12 per showing. The 90-minute documentary, written, directed, and produced by Reiner Holzemer, presents Margielas’ early career as Jean Paul Gaultier’s
assistant to creative director at Hermès through his creation of his own House. Margiela was one of the very few designers who did not want his face shown in public, nor conduct face-to-face interviews. He is a designer of complete anonymity, granting him the title, “The Banksy of Fashion.” Even in the film, his interviews are shot faceless.
His decision to remain a faceless designer allowed his brand and clothing to “speak for themselves,” hence the film’s title. Shooting a documentary about a man who doesn’t want his identity revealed, was a challenge, says Holzemer. But through behind-the-scenes footage and interviews with those who knew and admired him, like designer and mentor Jean Paul Gaultier, fashion icon Carine Roitfeld, and fashion critic Cathy Hory, the film clearly indicates who Martin Margiela is, without offering a glimpse of what he looks like.
The film even offers a childhood background of Margiela, which according to Holzemer, was difficult to gain access to. “It was always convincing, it was always a process,” says Holzemer.
Through runway footage, stories of his time at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, and voiceover from the man himself. Viewers gain inside knowledge on the man behind one of the world’s biggest fashion houses and the brand that inspired the anti-fashion fashion movement.
By: Staci S.
Haute Couture in Turbulent Times
There is truly no greater experience than seeing gorgeous couture garments in front of you on the runway at Haute Couture fashion week, one can assume. Obviously due to the pandemic, Haute Couture has shrunk to the small screen for our viewing pleasure. Designer after designer has released their collections, each in unique ways.
This past week, Christian Dior debuted a fairy tale experience with the release of a short film, with the models outfitted in the latest Dior Haute Couture. The film offers a fantastical escape into a world of mythology and was the vision of Italian filmmaker Matteo Garrone. In “Le Mythe Dior” bellhops carry a doll house trunk filled with miniature mannequins dressed in Dior Haute Couture. The customers, were a variety of mythological creatures, including nymphs, tree people, and mermaids. Once the creatures have placed their orders, the film goes back to the atelier showing a room of dressmakers working on the full-scale gowns. The items get delivered to each creature, who is then seen galavanting in their brand-new Dior gown.
The film was meant to be an “escape” for viewers into another world, and the surrealist plot is said to be the inspiration behind the garments as well. Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri said in a statement that the collection was inspired by surrealist artists. “Surrealist images manage to make visible what is in itself invisible,” Chiuri said in a statement.
Although the film was a creative alternative to an in-person runway show, many fashion professionals were quick to point out the extreme lack of diversity in the film, which was an entirely white cast. It is understandable that their intention was to mimic ancient Greek mythology, however it is certainly not an excuse for the extreme lack of diversity.
By: Staci Soslowitz
Milan September Update
As expected, the revelation that Paris will host a physical fashion week this September sparked a trend among other fashion capitals. This week, The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) announced they will also be having a physical fashion week while they unveiled their digital schedule for the men’s shows. Milan’s SS21 Men’s and Pre-SS21 Women’s collections are still set to premiere digitally this month.
In the release, the trade organization announced the fashion week events will take place as previously scheduled for September 22–28. “The physical fashion calendar, which will resume in September and will remain vital in promoting Made in Italy and the value of its manufacturing prowess,” CNMI president Carolo Capasa said in a statement.
As far as who will have physical shows, digital shows, or none at all, is dependent on the brand itself. Fendi has announced that they will have a collection debut in their Rome headquarters on September 22nd. Previously before the announcement was made by the CNMI, Dolce & Gabbana had already collaborated a live event on September 2nd and 3rd. The event is set to promote city artisans and the Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence.
Despite the excitement that may come from these announcements, the question still remains of who will be attending these shows. Most likely, the designers will allow close friends and family to watch live and stream for the world via digital platforms. With travel still uncertain, it’s unlikely editors and influencers will be able to attend, especially if they are international.
It was recently announced that the EU has placed heavy restrictions on American travelers starting this month. If this continues into September, American fashion media will have a difficult time attending any of the live events. (Sigh.) Therefore, we must hope (and maybe pray) that things get better enough for New York to follow in Paris and Milan’s footsteps, so we can all enjoy the excitement that is Fashion Month.
By: Staci Soslowitz
Rewiring the Fashion Industry
Within the last few months, the fashion industry has struggled to maintain itself. Brands faced numerous challenges as they faced store closures, bankruptcy, and failing sales. However, in response to the disaster, many members of the fashion world have gotten extremely creative when it comes to sustaining the industry. Some have even gone as far as releasing collections to the popular Nintendo game, Animal Crossing.
One of the biggest trends to come about from the pandemic is the rise of digital marketing and sales, especially the interactivity that takes place. This past June, the Russian Fashion Council and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia launched the first Global Talents Digital project, known as the “world’s first international hybrid fashion project that brings together designers and technology.”
The project featured over 50 designers from 20 different countries presenting collections in the format of augmented reality, digital clothing, and virtual models. The presentations were streamed over the course of two days on over 100 international websites. During the shows, viewers could scan QR codes directly to purchase items they saw. TikTok Russia even started a personalized hashtag for viewers to follow along with the events. ##перезагружаюмоду (translated from Russian as rewiring fashion) has over 30 million views on the most popular social media channel this year.
Following the massive success of their first debut, the Project has already begun preparing for a September showcase. This time around, the project will focus solely on sustainability and fashion. Designers can submit applications until August 7th.
It will be interesting to see how the project grows and the innovation that springs from it. Whether virtual models and AR are the future of the fashion industry is still being tested, however, it has proven to be useful especially during the coronavirus pandemic.
By: Staci Soslowitz
The No New Clothes Challenge
The fashion industry has certainly become a target in the wake of the Black Lives Matter resurgence in the last few weeks. Brands have been pressured to release official statements on their allegiance to the cause and have been put under fire for various racial injustices both in a corporate and retail setting. Many of these brands that have been called out for discriminatory actions have had their top executives forced to step down.
Now, the fashion world is taking one step further into preventing further incidents, as seemingly baseless apologies are not enough. The community activists behind Remake launched a new campaign last month, titled the #NoNewClothes pledge, which focused on holding brands accountable for their ability to be sustainable.
The 90-day pledge, which was recently extended until September 1, 2020, calls for consumers not to purchase any new clothing during the time frame. The pledge has nearly 500 signatures so far, and thanks to their auto-calculations, means people have saved a total of $108,850 and 9,721 pounds of waste.
The pledge doesn’t necessarily mean don’t buy anything, it just promotes the use of conscious decision making when it comes to buying new clothing. Rather than buying a new dress from a fast-fashion retailer, instead researching sustainable brands instead. This pledge should also ignite consumers to research the brands they’re buying from, especially what they’ve said and done about the Black Lives Matter Movement.
Holding fashion brands accountable has certainly become more demonstrated in the last few months, thanks to COVID-19 and the civil protests. If anything, the horrific disease and powerful protests have certainly sparked a shift in the fashion industry toward a more socially and economically aware future. With this pledge, hopefully more brands will begin to shift their sustainability practices and provide more diversity in the workplace.
By: Staci Soslowitz
The Rise of Preorders
The fashion industry has been constantly changing since the pandemic shut down stores, factories, and other branches of commerce. Even though in-store sales were diminished, many people continued to shop their favorite brands online. Because of the struggles to keep sales aligned with the amount of inventory, many brands have chosen to take pre-orders for new merchandise.
The biggest pioneer of this venture has been Telfar and their insanely popular bag that has become almost as difficult to purchase as a Birkin. Like the infamous Hermes bag, the “Bushwick Burkin” has offered consumers the option to preorder bags, for wait of up to five months. More brands are choosing to do this as a way to predict their inventory demands and keep up with the financial devastation that Covid-19 brought to their business.
There are positives and negatives that come with this structure of sales. If done effectively, brands can lessen excessive inventory and cover production costs upfront, if purchases must be paid in full. Telfar bags follow this model, with no returns or cancellations. However, the brand risks shipment delays and impatient customers as the delivery can take months.
“Pre-ordering is something that we’ve seen increasing even prior to Covid,” Sarah Willersdorf, Boston Consulting Group’s global head of luxury told Quartz. Brands believe the benefits of pre-orders outweigh the risks associated with them.
Designers have been saying that their customers are more willing to wait and accepting of delays because of how the pandemic has affected the whole system. In addition to the new reality, the positive environmental impact of preorders, as opposed to fast fashion, creates another benefit to the process.
As long as brands establish clear communication tactics and manage expectations, pre-orders can be beneficial to large or smaller brands. Telfar tells their loyal buyers to “be cool” about any unexpected changes to their orders.
If there is enough trust of the brands by the customers, the process of preordering will continue to be popularized. However, like many other fashion services, nothing compares to in-person experiences.
By: Staci Soslowitz
Staci Soslowitz 